Recipes

Andhra Curry-leaf Chicken
When I met Christine Manfield a while ago I gave her the impossible task of picking one recipe out of her stunning book Tasting India. This was the one she chose.
It comes from the southern state of Karnataka, the former state of Mysore and is typical of the surprising straightforwardness of the recipes in the book.
Andhra Curry-leaf Chicken
For me, this is one of the enduring tastes of Karnataka. I never imagined I would come across something so completely delicious served unadorned on a small plate as a pub snack – this recipe comes from Bangalore’s Windsor Pub.
SERVES 4
1.2 kg chicken thigh fillets, cut into 4 cm chunks
4 tablespoons cashew paste*
2 large dried red chillies
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons shredded curry leaves
2 tablespoons fried curry leaves **
MARINADE
1 teaspoon chilli powder
1 large dried red chilli, broken into small pieces
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon garam masala
1 tablespoon ginger garlic paste ***
3 tomatoes, chopped
150g thick plain yoghurt
To make the marinade, combine all the ingredients. Add the chicken and mix to coat. Marinate for 10 minutes.
Tip the chicken and its marinade into a large frying pan and bring to a simmer. Cook gently for 10 minutes. It should not be too wet?–?the marinade should have reduced and coated the chicken. Add the cashew paste, chillies, salt and shredded curry leaves and stir. Cook for another few minutes. Remove from the heat and sprinkle over the fried curry leaves to serve.
* To make the cashew paste blend raw cashews with an equal volume of water in a food processor to make a thick paste
** To fry curry leaves heat some vegetable oil to 170°C and fry fresh curry leaves in small batches for 20 seconds until their colour darkens. Remove from the oil with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. Store in an airtight container
*** To make Garlic Ginger Paste blend 10 large roughly chopped garlic cloves in a food processor with a roughly chopped 8-10cm piece of ginger (equivalent to 3 tbsp chopped ginger) and a little water or pound with a mortar and pestle until you have a smooth paste
Tasting India by Christine Manfield is published by Conran Octopus at £40
What to drink: I haven't yet made this but can tell it's going to be quite hot and spicy, a challenging dish to pair with wine. I think I'd probably go for a strong dry(ish) ros from Portugal or Chile. A lager would also be an option but I'm not sure that I don't fancy one of the delicious non-alcoholic drinks that Christine has in the book such as Ginger Lime Soda which is made like a mojito with ginger. Or just a straight mojito, come to that.

Yoghurt-baked fish with walnut-herb crumbs
This recipe came from a fascinating dinner at which chef Greg Malouf cooked a selection of Iranian dishes from his book Saraban which he wrote with his former wife Lucy with whom he still collaborates. This unusual and simple fish dish in yoghurt particularly appealed to me and I thought it would to you too.
Mahi-e mast-gerdu
YOGHURT BAKED FISH WITH WALNUT–HERB CRUMBS
Greg writes: Although it might at first seem a little strange to bake fish in yoghurt, I guarantee that this wonderful dish from the north of Iran, with its crunchy walnut and herb topping, will surprise and delight you. You’ll need to select a firm white fish that becomes succulent and tender as it cooks – I find rock ling (a south Australian fish) ideal.
SERVES 6
unsalted butter, for greasing
1 kg firm white fish fillet, skin removed
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
rice and fresh herbs, to serve
WALNUT–HERB CRUMBS
150 g fresh breadcrumbs
150 g shelled walnuts, coarsely chopped
and sieved
1/4 cup shredded flat-leaf parsley leaves
1/4 cup shredded tarragon leaves or
dill sprigs
90 g unsalted butter, melted
YOGHURT SAUCE
250 g thick natural yoghurt
1/2 teaspoon cornflour
1 large egg
1 small shallot, finely diced
2 tablespoons finely snipped chives
juice of 1/2 lime
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C. Lightly butter a baking dish just large enough to fit the fish comfortably.
To make the walnut–herb crumbs, combine the ingredients thoroughly in a bowl.
To make the yoghurt sauce, whisk the yoghurt with the cornflour and egg. Stir in the shallot, chives, lime juice and oil and season lightly with salt and pepper.
Remove any stray bones from the fish, then cut the fillet into 6 even pieces. Season the fish lightly all over with salt and pepper and arrange in the baking dish. Pour the yoghurt sauce over the fish. Pack a generous layer of the walnut–herb crumbs on top of each piece of fish. Season lightly again and bake for 15–20 minutes, or until the topping is golden and crunchy and the fish is cooked through.
Serve straight away with your choice of rice and fresh herbs. (Greg served this with a simple pilau and the very pretty fresh herb and flower salad in my rather blurry picture, right)
What to drink: We actually drank a rather grand Chablis premier cru with this but I think a simple crisp white like a Picpoul de Pinet or an Albariño would work just as well.
Saraban is published by Hardie Grant at £30.
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